Colombia

Colombia 2022: this was a last minute trip due to a change of plans, so I only got to the highlights:

Medellin:

Most tourists and DNs stay in Poblado or its mini neighboring section Manila, which is where I stayed (at an absurdly overpriced AirBnB).
Poblado is definitely on the edge of influencer-ville (picture many cafes and bars with neon light signs in English that say like 'DREAM'). But, it is still a fun place to hang out and I would happily have spent more time there. Medellin has a jungle-y, friendly, easy to drop in to vibe, and there are areas that are not overrun with gringos (which I am so I cannot complain). El Centro was the only area I felt unsafe (near the Botero statues). Drink spiking can be a concern for visitors.
The metros were safe and easy to take.
Here's my link to Google tags. After reviewing it months later, I don't think I did a good job marking things...but here are some recs I remember...
To do:

Take a guided tour of Comuna 13, far and away the best thing I did. The guide is local and can tell you about the dark history of the place and show you how far it has come. The neighborhood was the one of most alive places I have seen, with beautiful street art and everyone hanging out in the streets.
Cable car up to the Parque Arvi at the top of the city
Envigado, a burb outside the city (taxi-ride close)
Day/weekend trip to Guatape for the nature, massive rock you can walk up, lake, horseback riding, etc
Go to the botanical gardens and eat at the restaurant inside

Drink aguardiente, which goes down too smooth
El Social Tienda - my favorite night in Medellin was hanging out and dancing salsa with locals outside this bar
La Cabana del Recuerdo - outside of Medellin proper in Envigado, worth the cab ride, cool old school record bar
Rooftop drink at Mosquito
Multi course dinner at Carmen, make a res, heavenly food
Hija Mija - solid cafe and brunch
Cafe Zorba - fun pizza spot with leafy view
Tacos and cocktails at La Cruda
...and literally anywhere along Provenza like Belisario
Vintrash bar
Brunch at Botanika
Dinner and drinks at the rooftop of the Click Clack Hotel
Around Parque Arvi there are a lot of v. authentic restaurants like El Patacon
Hato Viejo - traditional Colombian food
In Situ - botanical gardens restaurant, fine dining

Cartagena:

I stayed in the old town, closer to the water. This is the more beautiful, but more touristy area. The old part of the city is not an area where you feel like you are in a normal life city scenario, it is more Disneyland. There are new neighborhoods outside the walls with high-rises and more conveniences.
Here's my Google maps link.
To eat & drink:

Definitely get out to the Rosario Islands, a couple hour boat ride from Cartagena. The beaches are not nice in Cartagena, but heavenly around these islands. I did a day trip to Fragata Island House and also stayed a long weekend at Coralina Island, which was dreamy. I got a rec for Blue Apple, but didn't have time. A lot of these hotels sell day passes with a boat ride included.
Cafe Havana live music
Sit in the squares throughout the city with a beer and people watch
Visit the art galleries in Gestemani
Cartagena is small, so walking the streets will cover most of your to-do's here

HP's Travel Recs