Amazon Rainforest

I did a lot of research on which part of the Amazon to visit.  Brazil has the largest portion, but it is the most damaged, so I ruled it out.  Peru has a Northern gateway (Iquitos) and Southern (Puerto Maldonado) to the Amazon.  I struggled between the two - Iquitos has pink river dolphins, but the Puerto Maldonado area (Madre de Dios region) has some of the highest biodiversity in the entire world.  It is also close to Madidi National Park in Bolivia which I had been fascinated with. Lastly, it had an amazing lodge, Tambopata Research Center, so I was sold. There was also the option of Manu Reserve, but the arduous and dangerous road journey knocked it off my list.  Here are my tips:

Puerto Maldonado:

• Many people fly into Puerto Maldonado and immediately move on to another lodge deeper in the rain forest.   However, I spent more time here and have two strongly recommended activities:

• Amazon Shelter: I volunteered for the day at this shelter about a half hour (rough) drive out of Puerto Maldonado. It was one of the best things I've ever done - they get you right in there if you volunteer for the entire day: I bathed a tapir (and shoveled its poo), got in the cages with monkeys and parrots to feed and clean, put together meals for all the animals, did dishes, etc. It is likely the closest I will ever get to such a variety of animals. The people who work here are angels and they desperately need the help and the small donation to volunteer there.

• Lake Sandoval:  a boat ride/hike takes you to this gorgeous lake with a ton of animals.   You row around the lake in a canoe and are constantly seeing wildlife, but also enjoying the peace of the lake.  My guide and I swam too, until he got bitten by a mystery fish and we had to run out :).  They have a family of giant river otters which eluded me when I was there, but I saw caimans, monkeys, birds, tarantulas, etc. 

• If you do stay here, stay at Hotel Enai.   Gorgeous new hotel right on the river, with excellent food and service. They do free airport transfer via bus and river boat. 

• Hotel Enai arranges tours through Hacienda Herrera (Kenny).   The tours were very well done with excellent and sweet guides. 

• Another option is Wasai Lodge, right in town.  Nothing spectacular, but centrally located and has a pool. 

• Overall, the town is not great - be careful of pickpockets.   The only restaurant that I kept getting recommendations for was Burgos. 

Tambopata National Reserve:

• Tambopata Research Center is far and away the most remote and authentic jungle experience in the region

• It is a long way there, but very worth it - you take a bus 45 minutes from the headquarters right by the PM airport, then get on a boat for 3-4 hours and stay overnight at Refugio Amazonas, another gorgeous lodge owned by the company. Some people stayed an extra night there to try to see Harpy Eagles in the area.

• After the Refugio stay, you can wake up very early and go up their canopy tower for sunrise, to be at eye level of the treetops and see the jungle wake up. Then you get on a boat and do abother 3-4 hours to get to TRC.

• TRC has a variety of activities, including river cruises and hikes geared towards specific interests. I did a lot of hikes revolving around giant trees and the different ecosystems - you really can't go wrong.

• There is a famous clay lick there where you can witness macaws and other parrots eating at the clay for nutrients.

• TRC is pricey, but food, transportation and guiding is included - it was well worth it. I got lucky and was upgraded to a suite the last night. It had an outdoor bath under the stars, was heaven!

• I stayed for 6 days 5 nights at TRC (including the one night at Refugio). With all the travel to and from, you need all these days.

• The company also has a lodge called Posada Amazonas - I wish I checked that out because they have otters nearby.

• All their lodges have three walls - meaning one side of your room is open to the jungle. May not be for everyone. There are cozy mosquito nets, but that doesn't stop anything from getting into the room itself. I had many possum nighttime roommates!

• There are also lectures offered some nights, which are given by researchers staying at the lodges - a must do

General tips:

• Bring a poncho that covers your backpack

• Make sure to bring slippers - most lodges don’t allow dirty hiking boots in, so you change at the doorstep

• Bring a headlamp - many lodges shut down electricity - and the rooms are open to the jungle so you’ll want to see what critter visitors you have when getting up to pee :)

• Get travel insurance - especially for medical.  I always end up using AXA. 

• Bring binoculars!!! #1 most used item on my trip

• I really liked using mosquito repellent lotion rather than spray - was just more manageable for me.