Morocco

Marrakech:

• We stayed at Riad Lena and Spa.   This was a lovely, quiet riad in a great section of the medina.  Definitely recommend
• Some good restaurants we ate at, they are pretty much in all the guidebooks: Cafe des espices, Le Jardin, Cafe Arabe (alcohol served), Cafe du Livre (alcohol served, backpackers type bar).  We didn't book a res at Nomad so couldn't get in, but looked like trendy hipster (alcohol served)
• The best thing to do here is just walk and get lost in all the souks. They are quite amazing!
• Look out for tea salons that have roofs overlooking the souks - the one we went to and loved didn't have a name so I can't recommend :)
• We waited on the line for Jardin Majorelle - was lovely and worth it!
• See the big square Djemaa El Fna at night - it is an assault on the senses!  Bring small change to give to performers - they will demand it if they seeing you taking pictures
• Other sights: We saw the Ben Youssef Medersa and the Koutoubia Mosque (outside only for non muslims)

Merzouga/Sahara:

• This was the highlight of my trip.  We had a driver that worked with Morocco Countryside Tours who picked us up in Marrakech and drove us to Merzouga (about nine hours drive).  Along the way we made some stops at old kasbahs, saw the Dades valley and drove through the Atlas mountains, which are snow topped
• We stayed at a slightly creepy guesthouse in Merzouga, which is on the edges of the dunes.   I would semi recommend this guesthouse because of location, price, but the owner was way too talkative and I felt uncomfortable. 
• We then took a drive through the desert, met with Berber nomads, saw fossils, listened to Gnawa music, ate Berber pizza and then drove out to meet our camel guides.  The camel ride was so so so fun, you just go straight out into the desert and ride off into the sunset. 
• We stayed overnight in a Berber tent complex, listening to Berber music and playing/boarding on the dunes.  An unreal experience - a must do!

Chefchauen:

• Beautiful blue city in the mountains.  You only need one day/night (maybe two nights) there but it was magic. 
• Hike to the Spanish mosque for the view and also do the quick hike to the wall around the top of the city.
• All you need to do here is walk around and enjoy the beautiful blue city and look at all the cats!
• We ate at Aladdin, touristy but decent enough and good views.  We also ate at Cafe Assaada, a traditional place with street seating in the medina. 
• We stayed at Dar Echchaouen - definitely definitely recommend.  

Fes:

• Fes has two main medinas.  We stayed in Batha near the Fes El Bali medina, which I recommend.  We stayed at Riad Salam Fes, which was literally the nicest place I will ever stay in my life.  A 17th century building with mosaics and traditional architecture, I felt like a queen.  Good location as well.
• We did hammam in our riad. They basically lay you down naked, scrub the shit out of you and pour buckets of near scalding water on you.  Its a traditional Moroccan thing, sorta relaxing/nice, sorta ridiculous feeling/funny. Seems to be a must do - they have public hammams which I would be way to scared to visit, but many tourists do!
• Food/drink:  Mezzanine is a good rooftop bar that serves alcohol.  Fes cafe is wonderful, great food, alcohol and a beautiful large garden - highly recommend.  Cafe Clock was a gem - great food, serve breakfast, nice views, right in the busiest souk in the old medina - we came here twice.  We ate a fancy dinner at La Maison Bleue  - big starter of different Moroccan salads, a choice of entree and desert - it was very elegant in a fancy riad, serves alcohol. 
• The souks in Fes el Bali are wonderful- I did most of my shopping in Fes and found great deals and nicer shop owners than in Marrakech. 
• We took a walk through the beautiful gardens on the way from Fes El Bali to Fes El Jdid/mellah (jewish area of the medina).  This is a great walk to see the gardens and these two parts of town